What Are the Symptoms of a Bad Gas Oven Igniter?

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Gas Oven Igniter Diagnostic Tool

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What to Do Next:
  • Turn off gas supply before inspecting
  • Check for visible igniter damage
  • Consider professional help for gas line work

If your gas oven won’t light, or it takes forever to turn on, you’re not imagining things. More often than not, the culprit is a worn-out or failing igniter. Gas ovens don’t use sparks like electric stoves-they rely on a small but powerful component called the igniter to heat up and ignite the gas. When that part goes bad, your oven won’t work, and sometimes, it can even be dangerous.

It Takes Too Long to Light

A healthy gas oven igniter should light the burner within 30 to 45 seconds after you turn the knob to bake or broil. If you’re waiting a full minute or longer, and you can hear the gas hissing but no flame appears, that’s a classic sign the igniter is weak. The igniter needs to get hot enough-around 1,800 to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit-to open the gas safety valve. If it’s worn out, it won’t reach that temperature, so the gas stays shut off. You might hear the gas flow, but no ignition. That’s not just inconvenient-it’s a red flag.

You Smell Gas

If you smell gas but the oven doesn’t light, that’s serious. The igniter’s job isn’t just to create flame-it’s to signal the gas valve to open only when it’s ready to burn the gas safely. A failing igniter can let gas leak into the oven cavity without igniting it. That gas builds up. When the igniter finally sparks or heats enough to light, you get a small puff or even a small flame burst. That’s not normal. It’s a fire hazard. If you smell gas for more than 10 seconds without ignition, turn off the gas supply to the oven and ventilate the room immediately. Don’t flip switches or use phones nearby-spark risks ignite the gas.

The Oven Lights but Goes Out Right Away

Sometimes the igniter works long enough to light the flame, but then the flame dies after a few seconds. This happens because the igniter is too weak to keep the gas valve open. The valve stays open only as long as the igniter is hot enough to draw the right amount of electrical current. A new igniter pulls about 3.2 to 3.5 amps. When it’s failing, it might only pull 2.5 amps or less. The safety valve senses the drop in current and shuts off the gas. So you get a quick flash of flame, then nothing. This isn’t a thermostat issue-it’s the igniter not holding its load.

You See a Glowing Igniter But No Flame

Open the oven door and turn it on. Look at the bottom of the oven near the back. You should see the igniter glow bright orange or yellow, like a tiny heating coil. If it glows dimly, or only glows in patches, or doesn’t glow at all, it’s bad. A healthy igniter glows with a solid, even orange light. A failing one might flicker, glow red instead of orange, or glow only on one end. If you see no glow at all, check the power first-but if the oven has power and the broil element works, the igniter is likely dead.

Person standing by a gas oven with no flame, clock showing long ignition time, implied gas leak.

The Oven Only Works on Broil, Not Bake

Some gas ovens have two igniters-one for bake, one for broil. If the broil function lights up fine but the bake function doesn’t, the bake igniter is probably the one that’s failed. The broil igniter is usually located at the top of the oven cavity, while the bake igniter sits at the bottom. If only one side fails, it’s almost always because that specific igniter has worn out. Replacing just the faulty one fixes the issue-no need to replace both unless they’re both old.

Clicking or Buzzing Sounds Without Ignition

You might hear a clicking or buzzing noise coming from the oven when you turn it on. That’s not the igniter-that’s the gas valve trying to open. The igniter is supposed to heat up first, then the valve opens. If the igniter is broken, the valve just keeps trying to open, making noise. It’s like a door lock that keeps clicking but never turns. That sound means the system is stuck in a loop, waiting for a signal that never comes. It’s not normal. And it’s a sign the igniter is no longer sending the right electrical signal.

Older Oven? Igniter Is Likely the Issue

Gas oven igniters typically last 5 to 8 years. If your oven is 10 years old or more, and you’re having ignition problems, the igniter is the most likely cause. It’s not a complex part-it’s a ceramic rod with a heating coil. Over time, the coating wears off, the material cracks, or the electrical resistance changes. Even if it still glows, it may not be hot enough. Replacing it is one of the cheapest and easiest fixes for a gas oven. Parts cost under $50, and installation takes less than an hour for most DIYers.

Cross-section of oven system showing weak igniter and closed gas valve with fading electrical current.

How to Test It

You don’t need fancy tools to test the igniter. First, unplug the oven or turn off the gas and power. Remove the oven bottom panel and locate the igniter-it’s a small, rectangular ceramic piece with two wires attached, near the burner. Turn the oven on and watch it. If it glows, it’s getting power. If it glows weakly or not at all, it’s bad. For a more precise test, use a multimeter. Set it to measure resistance (ohms). Disconnect the wires from the igniter. Touch the probes to the two terminals. A good igniter reads between 40 and 400 ohms. If it reads infinite resistance (OL or 1), it’s open and dead. If it reads under 40 ohms, it might be shorted. Either way, replace it.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Ignoring a bad igniter doesn’t just mean you can’t bake cookies. It means you’re risking gas leaks, small explosions, or even a fire. Gas ovens are designed with safety in mind-but those systems rely on the igniter working correctly. A weak igniter can cause repeated gas buildup. That’s how small kitchen fires start. Insurance claims from gas appliance fires are common. Replacing a $40 igniter is far cheaper than cleaning soot off your cabinets or dealing with a fire department visit.

Replacing It Yourself

Replacing a gas oven igniter is a straightforward fix. You’ll need a screwdriver, a new igniter (match your model number), and maybe a pair of needle-nose pliers. Turn off the gas and power. Remove the oven bottom panel. Unplug the old igniter’s wires. Unscrew the mounting bracket. Pull out the old part. Plug in the new one, screw it in place, and reassemble. Turn everything back on. Test it. If it lights in under 45 seconds, you’re done. Most hardware stores carry universal igniters that fit common brands like Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, and Samsung.

When to Call a Pro

If you’re uncomfortable working with gas lines, or if the oven still doesn’t light after replacing the igniter, call a technician. Other issues-like a faulty gas valve, thermostat, or control board-can mimic igniter problems. But if the igniter is glowing properly and the oven still won’t light, it’s time to bring in someone with a gas leak detector and diagnostic tools. Don’t guess. Gas is invisible. One mistake can be costly.